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In 1880, Toluca Ranch was a kingdom that spanned nearly 10,000 acres and which stretched 17 miles north from the Rio Grande.
Time and the dissolution of the original parcel of land has reduced the size of the spread to 750 acres, a smaller but still sizable expanse exceeding a square mile.
Today, the famous ranch still retains vestiges of its grandeur. The ranch was declared a historical site in 1980 by Texas Society of the Colonial Dames of the 17th Century.
The headquarters complex consists of St. Joseph's Church, based on a design by the Rev. Peter Keralum and built in 1896; the hacienda, completed in 1903; and the store and the school, both opened in 1908.
A gravel drive leads to the ranch's main entrance. The two story hacienda is in dire need of repairs, but inside the years have been kinder.
Two impressive staircases adorn the entryway. To the left is a formal living room. There is a huge kitchen, five bedrooms and an enclosed patio that serves as a family room.
But it's what isn't immediately seen at the hasienda that has given the ranch a touch of mystery.
The current occupant, Marie Fernandez, widow of Santiago "Jimmy" Fernandez and a descendent of the ranch's founder, Florencio Saenz, recently revealed some of the hacienda's hidden aspects.
Beneath the hacienda she showed the way to a cellar that contained secret rooms. It's where ranch residents and people from nearby towns hid during the bandit days in the early years of this century.
That was when Pancho Villa's followers crossed the Rio Grande and raided farms, stores and homes.
The good hiding places provided a haven for the ranch residents, and Villa's followers used restraint in not damaging the buildings in their raids on the ranch.
"Pancho's bandits did not dissrupt the house nor the church in any way," said Marie Fernandez, whose husband told her the history of the ranch.
The story of the ranch begins in 1880 when Florencio and Sostenes Cano Saenz founded the ranch on a 1790 Llano Grande land grant given to Saenz's ancestor, Spanish colonist Juan Hinojosa.
The history of the ranch is also a tale of genealogy.
The Saenz's daughter, Manuela Saenz, married Amador Fernandez. After they died, the ranch was divided among their children.
Their descendants own remaining parts of the ranch. Those who still live close to each other on the ranch's lands are, in addition to Marie Fernandez, her son, James Michael Fernandez, his wife and children; Jose Fernandez, his wife and twin sons; and Christina Fernandez.
Perhaps more recognized than the hacienda as being special is the ranch's church. It's origination was instrumental to the ranch's success.
What got it built was Saenz's need for good water to make his ranch a success. He searched for a good location for a well on his land, but he didn't have much luck.
So he made a promise to God that if he would find water, he would build a church on the land. Saenz dug a final time and found good, sweet water.
As a result, the chapel was built in 1896, and it is known for its collection of relics.
At its entrance is a pair of angels to hold holy water. Its floor is built from large bricks made at the ranch, and its old pews can still accommodate 85 people.
In the front sanctuary is a statue of Mary holding Jesus. The symbol of motherly love was donated by Manuela Fernandez to Our Lady of Mercy Church in Mercedes. She had promised to donate the statue to the church if all five of her sons returned safely from World War II. Her prayers were answered.
Manuela Fernandez asked for it after Our Lady of Mercy was remodeled later, and the statue was put in a closet.
The famous well dug by ranch founder Saenz in the late 1800s is still there.
"The tank was blown down during the strong winds of Hurricane Bret," said Marie Fernadez. "But everything else is still located in front of the chapel."
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- The Saenz Coat of Arms (265 KB)
The Saenz Coat of Arms illustrated was drawn by an heraldic artist from information officially recorded in ancient heraldic archives. Documentation for the Saenz Coat of Arms design can be found in Rietstap Armorial General.
- The Toluca Ranch House (73 KB)
In 1880, Toluca Ranch was a kingdom that spanned nearly 10,000 acres and which stretched 17 miles north from the Rio Grande. The ranch was declared a historical site in 1980 by Texas Society of the Colonial Dames of the 17th Century. The headquarters complex consists of St. Joseph's Church, based on a design by the Rev. Peter Keralum and built in 1896; the hacienda, completed in 1903; and the store and the school, both opened in 1908.
- The Toluca Ranch St. Joseph Church (32 KB)
St. Joseph Church at Toluca Ranch was built in 1896, and it is known for its collection of relics and famed for the artifacts brought from Spain. At its entrance is a pair of angels to hold holy water.
- Another look at St. Joseph Church at Toluca Ranch (79 KB)
What got this church built was Saenz's need for good water to make his ranch a success. He searched for a good location for a well on his land, but he didn't have much luck. So he made a promise to God that if he would find water, he would build a church on the land. Saenz dug a final time and found good, sweet water.
- Inside the St. Joseph Church at Toluca Ranch (77 KB)
Its floor is built from large bricks made at the ranch, and its old pews can still accommodate 85 people. In the front sanctuary is a statue of Mary holding Jesus.
- Toluca Ranch Well (43 KB)
This is the famous well dug and built by ranch founder Saenz in the late 1800s. Mr Saenz kept his promise when he found sweet water and he built the chapel in 1896.
- Toluca Ranch Historic Marker (70 KB)
Toluca Ranch was declared a historical site in 1980 by Texas Society of the Colonial Dames of the 17th Century. Today, the famous ranch still retains vestiges of its grandeur.
- Don Florencio Saenz Homestead Plaque (99 KB)
DON FLORENCIO SAENZ HOMESTEAD
Built on family spainish land grant in 1902. Headquarters for Toluca Ranch. Which at one time stretched 17 miles north from the Rio Grande. Here Saenz operated a merchantile store, promoting cattle ranching and river farming as successful buisness ventures for the valley.
Site of 1915 bandit raid in which a private was killed when U.S. soldiers discovered and fought off desperadoes trying to burn the house.
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